rebuilding leaf springs

Hello,

I will be putting the leaf springs back together at the weekend, i've shot blasted, primed, and painted with top coat each leaf, when i rebuild them should i put grease between each leaf?

if so what grease shall i use?

Some say grease some say not. I've never understood why the argument. The last time I just used ordinary HP grease.

I would ask how good your shock absorbers are?

Putting grease between the leaves will reduce the natural damping effect of leaf springs and make the shocks have to do more work.

Greased springs would be the ideal for a smoother ride and less wear on the leaves themselves though.

As I have always understood it, if you grease them the friction between the leaves is lost and therefore the dampers may not be able to cope over rough terrain. Or speed humps!

The manufacturers instructions re grease would affect which dampers would have been chosen.

Sorry stormin you beat me!

As I have always understood it, if you grease them the friction between the leaves is lost and therefore the dampers may not be able to cope over rough terrain. Or speed humps!

 

The manufacturers instructions re grease would affect which dampers would have been chosen.

 

Sorry stormin you beat me!

Yes trickey one this,you did have wedges to spread the leaves so they could be greased at one time.i would say dry,we used to clean them quick wipe with grease then wrap in Denso tape which was a grease tape you wrapped pipes with before going underground,dont know what its called now.this helped to keep the muck out when off roading etc.

Yes trickey one this,you did have wedges to spread the leaves so they could be greased at one time.i would say dry,we used to clean them quick wipe with grease then wrap in Denso tape which was a grease tape you wrapped pipes with before going underground,dont know what its called now.this helped to keep the muck out when off roading etc.

CW,

Denso tape still available, I used it on a Humber transverse front spring. Once picked up a Terrys tool for opening up spring leaves and forcing lubricant between them, much like a G clamp, only the screw had an oiler in it. Bedfords used to recommend a light smear of graphite grease between leaves on assembly.

I think some of the more expensive cars had leather laced up covers.or have i been looking at the wrong books again?:cool2:

I think some of the more expensive cars had leather laced up covers.or have i been looking at the wrong books again?:cool2:

Correct and I think a company that made these gaiters was Wefco (?).

Mainly i'm trying to avoid the rusty mess you usually get on the face of the springs. Hopefully with blasting each leaf it should stop it for a while.

If bedford suggest it then it must be the way to go.

Mainly i'm trying to avoid the rusty mess you usually get on the face of the springs. Hopefully with blasting each leaf it should stop it for a while.

 

If bedford suggest it then it must be the way to go.

When i grease the props i just wipe the excess on the springs.:idea:

When i grease the props i just wipe the excess on the springs.:idea:

Thats what my dad dose on his!!

is copper ease the same as graphite grease?

Correct and I think a company that made these gaiters was Wefco (?).

You are quite correct Richard, the name rang a bell with me so I Googled it and it came up with a vintage supply co that still offer them and judging by the order form they are custom made.

Thats what my dad dose on his!!

 

is copper ease the same as graphite grease?

No one is copper one is Graphite.

Yeah i appreciate that mate, thanks.:rofl:

I was just wondering if copper ease was a similar thing. Maybe a modern equivilant, as there's loads hanging around at work. :box:

Useful stuff Copper Ease if you have the odd box or two? Worth treating the threads on bolts you may have to undo, especially spark plugs on a flat head. More used as an anti sieze treatment on assembelies. Graphite is a form of carbon, can be used dry, used to be called dry lubricant. My dad had a trick of rubbing pencil lead on his saw blade to ease the cut.

Yeah i appreciate that mate, thanks.:rofl:

 

I was just wondering if copper ease was a similar thing. Maybe a modern equivilant, as there's loads hanging around at work. :box:

:rofl::rofl::rofl:Wasnt taking the mick,its that simple.Copper for assembly where corrosion or hight temp would make it difficult to take apart.Graphite slippery good for ujs general greasing esp for hard contact areas.A lot more exspensive than good old Lithium all you will need for the use your vehicle will get.:pfrt::rofl:

Cor he reckons I'se got summat RIGHT!!!!!!:sweat:

i see, i think i've had this under my finger nails before :rotfl:!!

No offence taken cw thanks for yor help.

Just to clarify, are we talking about one type of graphite grease? As i read it ones hard and ones slippery.

looking on google there seems to be a few differnet grades and prices :shocked:, can you point me in the right direction or do bedford give a grade?

 

can you point me in the right direction or do bedford give a grade?

Bedford did not specify a particular type or grade, but I have used a military supplied graphite in the past, which was like a grey paste, came in tubes, also used for the rear main seals on Bedfords.

Actually Copper Ease on bushes and bolts etc wouldn't hurt. make life a whole lot easier for fitting and adjusting. Your grandkids will thank you for it. Just a light smear mind you.

Copaslip is an electrical conductor, so is very good for protecting earth strap connections form corrosion. Only earth straps though.

I was told a wipe with grease on assembly was ok and to use graphite type grease. CopperSlip is for assembly of NONE moving parts. ie nuts, bolts, gears and pulleys onto electric motor output shafts etc. NEVER use it on sliding surfaces like leaves in springs and shafts in plain bearings. It acts as a mild abrasive. CopperSlip contains basically copper filings albiet 'hyper' minute. Use it on anything fixed you need to disassemble. The company I attend builds huge inline washing machines. They always had problems stripping hollow shaft gear boxes off stainless steel shafts. I suggested CopperSlip on the shafts and now we don't have a problem inspite of some very aggresive detergents and 80c tempretures the CopperSlip stays put. Get it on your overalls. It's a friend for life! Leyland suggest painting C600 oil which is now EP140 on the springs in the workshop manual for the Hippo. The other advantage of using CopperSlip on our machines is I've always got some. Lithium based grease is a good assembly grease on none moving parts. We use that as well now. I've always.....

Phil P

Phil. What was that thing you posted in another place about Washers? :cool2:

When i grease the props i just wipe the excess on the springs.:idea:

Your Champ doesn't have any springs ??

You should NEVER shot blast springs, it tends to stress relieve them and they will stop being springy. New castings are often shot blast to stress relieve them.

Just grease them, you won't get any friction with new grease and it will prevent them wearing and they will work fine, never had any problems.